5 #RomanianDesigners to follow at Romanian Jewelry Week 2023
A designer said to me: “The intimate connection between the jewelry and its wearer allows for a more profound and unique form of expression”. And I am totally agree! And that is the reason that every piece of jewellery I have (and wear) brings me back memories about places, people and happy moments. Therefore, I would like to introduce you 5 #RomanianDesigners to follow at Romanian Jewelry Week 2023. And, why not, to invite you to create your own memories.
Below, short interviews with Alexandra Vlad, Juliery / Teodora Liliana Nicuț – Galagos Jewels / Mădălina Rădulea, Madeleine / Ioana Mariana Deak – Mellon Collie Ceramics / Mihaela Caravan – IIOO Jewelry. Scroll down and be amazed!
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- Romanian Jewelry Week 2023 – 4-8th of October 2023, at Biblioteca Națională a României.
- More than 230 designers, school and collective associations of designers from more than 30 countries (Romania, UK, SUA, Australia, France, Kuwait, Czech Republic, Latvia, Italy, Greece, Mexico, Lithuania, Israel, Ukraine, Belgium).
*** ALEXANDRA VLAD, JULIERY – https://www.instagram.com/juliery_by_alexandra/ – “To create gave me control and freedom, safety and adventure at the same time.”
You chose to focus on jewelry because…
Jewelry focuses my entire being into one thing and that is creating. I started by going to jewelry classes, like most designers do, probably. But later on, when I reached a point where I needed a break from everything that was happening or rather not happening in my life, one of those crossroad moments, it’s jewelry that I turned to because it allowed me to create. It gave me control and freedom, safety and adventure at the same time. It really does allow me this space where I can be learning and creating something of value at the same time, and contemporary jewelry is truly a wonderful art to study and contribute to.
What is the message of the collection presented here, at Romanian Jewelry Week 2023?
POT is a wordplay around the English “pot”, the cup you plant seeds in and nourish them to grow and the Romanian verb “a putea” the Romanian verb equivalent of the modal verb “can” in first person singular, “I can”. POT is about contemporary jewelry as a resource that encourages expression, a space to pour ideas into and let them grow into beautiful plants, and at the same time is a one-word manifesto for doing the art itself as an objective. It’s the impulse that precedes the action and the scope of the action at the same time. Pot is meeting the public with the hope that it will encourage the viewer to contemplate about their resources, dreams and also their personal “inner spark” to move in the direction they choose.
If you were a piece of jewelry, you would be… (why?)
Right now I am the ring that I am working on at the moment, a special piece from the POT collection that I cannot show to you yet because I am fine tuning it, but it will be present in ROJW. Come to think of it, I might always be resembling the piece of jewelry that I am “currently” working on, no matter the moment you ask me, but please ask me again when I have made so many that I can be certain that I stick to the answer.
*** TEODORA LILIANA NICUȚ – GALAGOS JEWELS – @teodoranicut – “I needed something to do leisurely in the time that I wasn’t painting, something relaxing and rewarding and jewelry making was just right. ”
You chose to focus on jewelry because…
I love jewels, I find them most exquisite and beautiful, so I want to make my own. Also I needed something to do leisurely in the time that I wasn’t painting, something relaxing and rewarding and jewelry making was just right.
What is the message of the collection presented here, at Romanian Jewelry Week?
I have always found more beautiful and appealing the look of printing plates rather than that of the actual prints on paper. That was the starting point of this collection and the decision to turn the plates into jewelry. Although a subject that has been around for thousands of years, the portrait remains the focal point in art, capable of expressing the deepest human feelings. In this collection I have explored the possibilities of rendering the human face on a miniature scale, while keeping it’s expressive potential. So combining printing techniques and a classic subject, to give them both a contemporary twist as jewelry, that is what my collection is about.
If you were a piece of jewelry, you would be… (why?)
Just one? I’d like to be a parure, just can’t make up my mind to one piece because I love them all.
*** MĂDĂLINA RĂDULEA, MADELEINE – www.madeleine.ro, @madeleinejeweler – “When you create a piece of jewelry, you’re crafting a story, a sentiment”
You chose to focus on jewelry because…
… it has always held a special allure for me. It’s not just about adorning oneself; it’s a canvas where art meets emotions. Jewelry allows me to channel my creativity into tangible, wearable forms of art. When you create a piece of jewelry, you’re not merely crafting an accessory; you’re crafting a story, a sentiment, a symbol that people can carry with them every day. It’s the fusion of aesthetics and emotions that drew me to jewelry, and it’s this unique blend that continues to fuel my passion for creating beautiful pieces that people can cherish for a lifetime.
What is the message of the collection presented here, at Romanian Jewelry Week?
The Heritage Collection presented at Romanian Jewelry Week is a tribute to the enduring beauty of history and heritage. Inspired by coins from Argentina and Cuba, this collection carries a profound message. Incorporating these coins into my jewelry was a deliberate choice, one that adds depth and meaning to each piece. These coins aren’t just artefacts; they’re storytellers of the past. By weaving them into my designs, I aimed to create a bridge between the wearer and history, offering a chance to connect with the rich cultural tapestry that these coins represent. This collection invites individuals to wear a piece of heritage, to embrace the significance of history, and to make it a part of their personal narrative.
If you were a piece of jewelry, you would be… (why?)
If I were a piece of jewelry, I would undoubtedly be a ring. Rings are fascinating because they encapsulate a myriad of human experiences and emotions. They are often worn to symbolise commitments, celebrate milestones and at the same time, they serve as a versatile fashion statement, allowing individuals to express their unique style and personality. Whether a simple band or an elaborate design adorned with gemstones, a ring is a piece that transcends time and trends. It’s a constant presence, a circle of continuity, and a silent witness to the moments that define us. Much like a ring, I aim to be a steadfast presence in the lives of those who appreciate the enduring beauty of art and craftsmanship.
IOANA MARIANA DEAK – MELLON COLLIE CERAMICS – https://www.melloncollie-ceramics.com, @melloncollieceramics – “I always loved to pay attention to details”
You chose to focus on jewlery because…
I always loved to pay attention to details. And because it is a piece of art that can be worn, maybe by more then one generation, it can become timeless.
What is the message of the collection presented here, at Romanian Jewelry Week?
The Lovers Eye Collection – century England XVIII. Miniature eye was known as “Lover’s Eye” was in fashion for about half a century. Most such jewelry was ordered to be given as a gift, symbolising love and fidelity to the loved one. Sometimes they were also ordered in memory of the deceased. They were very precious and intimate jewelry, the eyes being painted on pieces of ivory the size of the little finger nail, for example. Over time they became more and more complex, rings, brooches to be fastened inside the coat, as close as possible to the heart, decorated with precious stones, pearls, gold.
As objects, Lover’s Eyes are fascinating. And strange. Half portrait, half jewel, they cannot be easily placed in a category. At the same time, the mystery that surrounds them concerns both the one whose eye is represented, as well as the painter who created the miniature. In addition, until the beginning of the 2000s, relatively little was written about these jewels, about their history and significance, although there are many examples in the collections of major museums, such as the Cleveland Museum of Art, the Philadelphia Museum of Art and London’s Victoria and Albert Museum. What exactly made them so famous in sex. XVIII and what exactly made the fashion for these jewels disappear so quickly? Why one eye and not the whole face? We also learn from Hanneke Grootenboer. On the one hand, precisely because of their intimate nature. Each look expresses a different kind of emotion, from subtle looks, to fiery, melancholic looks, expressing past or unrequited loves, authoritative, supervising looks, all of which were relevant only to the two involved – the one to whom the jewel was intended and the one of whose eye was represented. With the end of their lives, these objects no longer represented the same fascination for other people. On the other hand, the appearance of photography, which successfully replaced the lovers’ need to have “a part of the other” always with them, contributed to the gradual abandonment of these strange, hypnotising and fascinating jewels.
If you were a piece of jewlery, you would be… (why?)
I would be earrings. I think earrings are the most feminine piece of jewelry. Both when I wear them, and when I see them worm by someone else.
*** MIHAELA CARAVAN – IIOO JEWELRY – https://mihaelacaravan.com/@mihaelacrvn, https://www.iioo.jewelry/ – “The intimate connection between the jewelry and its wearer allows for a more profound and unique form of expression.”
You chose to focus on jewlery because…
Focusing on contemporary jewelry is a beautiful choice, and the reasons for doing so emphasise the unique and expressive nature of this art form. Contemporary jewelry is a powerful means of communicating deep and personal messages to the world. The intimate connection between the jewelry and its wearer allows for a more profound and unique form of expression. The process of selecting and wearing a specific piece of contemporary jewelry involves a multi-sensory experience, which includes considerations of conceptual resonance, aesthetics, and colours. This decision is not just about adornment but also about adding something new and meaningful to one’s existing body, akin to a precious and personal item that is kept close to the skin. This perspective underscores the significance of contemporary jewelry as a form of self-expression and a unique way to convey one’s inner thoughts and emotions to the world.
What is the message of the collection presented here, at Romanian Jewellery Week?
The “In Between” jewelry collection offers a profound exploration of the concept of “home” from my perspective after spending over eight years as an expat in Germany. This deeply personal collection delves into the intricate facets of “home” – its physical, emotional, and comforting dimensions. Each piece in this collection encapsulates the sensation of residing between two lands. It merges diverse elements, blending the old with the new, the familiar with the foreign. Crafted from stone, metal, wood and cotton thread, these pieces are infused with colours that symbolize the harmony that can be discovered in these contrasting worlds.
Through these distinctive designs, “In Between” captures the essence of straddling two homes, evoking emotions of both displacement and belonging. It encourages individuals to reflect on their own interpretations of “home” and to find the beauty that can emerge from this delicate equilibrium. “In Between” serves as a poignant reminder that “home” is a dynamic and evolving journey, not a fixed location. It inspires us to embrace our experiences, even within the “in between” space. This collection celebrates the resilience of the human spirit and the inherent beauty that emerges during life’s transformative moments.
If you were a piece of jewlery, you would be… (why?)
If I were a jewel, I’d choose the wedding band’s embrace, a symbol of love, commitment, and unwavering hope. Worn daily, it becomes a loyal partner, a constant presence through life’s ebbs and flows. In moments of need, it’s a reassuring glance, a reminder that solitude is a fleeting shadow. Over time, it moulds to your skin, a gentle fusion, crafting a symbiotic bond with its bearer, etching your story in every delicate curve.
Photography: courtesy of RJW 2023.