Mihai Cristian Anghel: “It was a complex process that implied many hours of hand-crafting” – interview with a young designer UAD Fashion 2024 generation
I’ve never thought I could wear a couture dress in a very very hot studio. But, still, I did it. And that is because I loved the work of the other half of Anghel brothers (see the previous post with the interview of Adrian Gabriel Anghel) and I wanted to see how it is to be dress as a Queen. As Queen Marie of Romania or actress Tilda Swinton, as Mihai Cristian Anghel explained to me the inspiration for “Liquefactio” collection presented at UAD Fashion 2024. And I was impressed by the couture details, by all the attentions given to the whole outfit (from corsage to layering of fabrics). Guys, I have nothing more than a lot of “bravo” to say. And keep up the good work. read, below, the interview with Mihai Cristian Anghel, a young designer from UAD Fashion 2024 generation.
Your collection for 2024 UAD Fashion gala was inspired by…
My collection was inspired by the stylistic correspondence between Queen Marie of Romania and actress Tilda Swinton, as important fashion icons of different times that shares surprisingly lots of similarities. The name “Liquefactio” (latin word for the act of metamorphosis from solid to liquid form) describes symbolically this connection between past-present-future, highlighting the hybridisation of these two international figures. The collection moodboards express the solemn, ethereal atmosphere through the dramatic black and white photographic references of Queen Marie and the surrealist fashion editorials of Tilda Swinton.
I cannot not ask you this 🙂 Did you ever take a peek at your brother’s moodboard or work? And what do you think about his collection?
Somehow it’s inevitable to stay away from your twin’s brother work when you spend 24h/ day together. 🙂 It’s like a team, we’re asking for advice, we debate everything, we have the same aesthetic preferences in fashion but the personal touch is always different. For me, his collection is truly like a dream, exactly how he desired, all covered in mystery, and I just love all the details, the hand embroidery carefully crafted, the movement of the fabric, the silhouettes, everything.
You chose to have a collection all white because…
I wanted to express solemnity, statuary silhouettes, purity in shapes that seems to gracefully cover the body in glazed porcelain. For this collection I went more on the idea of structural, stiff, architectural vision of femininity, so, that’s the meaning behind of the “all white” looks.
Tell me about the actual process of making the collection – how hard it was, how many hours you have spent doing it (sewing, cutting, embroidery, prints etc)?
It was a complex process that implied many, many hours of hand-crafting, hand-stitching, absolutely vital for obtaining the final sculptural shapes that I wanted to have. It’s important to mention that all of the outfits are entirely made by us (me and Adrian) from developing the pattern to actual sewing and final touches. Each piece has an interior structure including boning, 19th century corsets, layering of fabrics, to maintain the volume desired, having references to Vintage Dior and Balenciaga as masters of couture. For “The Lily Bag”, the accessory of the first outfit, I worked for months creating every little white lily flower from a special foam clay, flowers that I manually attached to a completely functional sphere purse. I believe everything is in the details.
How can we solve the dilemma: why should we invest in a Romanian designer piece instead in one from a famous brand?
It’s simple. I believe that investing in a Romanian designer piece you’re investing actually in your country, in you, basically, helping and supporting new talents, local brands that offer you high-quality and craftsmanship. I think it’s important to see the potential of an emerging Romanian designer, to take apart the notorious name of a famous brand, and to give him the trust, the chance he need to prove you that he is all you need and even more.
Tell me one personal story related to the fashion world.
The first thing that came to my mind takes me back in 2015 when I just fell in love with a Sandy Powell costume for “Cinderella” movie, starring Lily James, a huge 18th century ball gown that really looks ethereal, like an watercolour painting. I remember that I was obsessed for years, spending time searching for “behind the scenes“, creating process, fabrics she used for that optical illusion, and even now I’m trying to stay away from that dress not to become a victim again. Anyway, thanks to that dress I started to take seriously into consideration a career in fashion industry.
One important lesson learnt at the UAD Fashion school is…
To work hard, to stay in humbleness (in a positive way), accepting that you may be wrong sometimes, to always keep your hope and the last but not the least, if you don’t believe in an idea… change it, because it won’t work.
The piece (the pattern, cut) that will always be in your collection is…
Definitely the dress, in a wide variety, from the classic meaning of the word to the coat-dress, cape-dress and any other hybridisations with masculine wardrobe pieces and costume history references.
One city, one song, one movie just perfect for your collection will be…
Paris, “Viola d’amore” – Vivaldi, “Orlando” directed by Sally Potter, starring Tilda Swinton.
The designers relevant right now for you are (one Romanian, one international… Ancuța Sarca and Daniel Roseberry
What is next for you (this year, 2024, the next year)…
Having a twin it’s a question for two. 🙂 From a wide point of view we want to create our personal fashion brand, to develop a strong visual identity and to improve our skills during the MA programme of UAD FASHION.
