Adrian Gabriel Anghel: “I did not keep track of the number of hours spent on creating the garments” – interview with young designer from UAD Fashion 2024

Adrian (and his brother Mihai Cristian) Anghel were the names that everybody was talking about after the presentations of UAD Fashion graduation collection 2024. White outfits (of course, what else for me?!) and a Victorian inspiration. When I saw the pictures on stories and feeds in the evening of the presentation I instantly put his collection on my short list. When I saw, for real, the dress and the garments at the photo shooting I knew I made the right choice. The collection presented by Adrian Gabriel Anghel is very good, elaborate and with a lot of details just perfect to fall in love. Not to mention that I had a lot of fun with them two, at one of the hottest (literally the hottest) photo shoot I have ever been into. Meet one of UAD Fashion 2024 designer, Adrian Gabriel Anghel. 

#FashionBlogger #FashionTrend #RomanianDesigner #English

You can find him on the personal Instagram account: @adrian.gabriel.anghel and on his creative account: @anghel.couture.
More collections from UAD Fashion 2024 – on @uadfashion. Read HERE about all the collections.
Thank you @ralucaciornea & @mushu_roi for the beautiful pictures. Thanks @lucianbroscatean @kiss.gyongyver for all your support! 

Your collection for 2024 UAD Fashion gala was inspired by…

My collection is named “Descensum” and aims to explore how spirituality influenced   fashion and society during the Victorian era. The title “Descensum” comes from Latin and means descent, a descent into the unknown world of spirits. I was also intrigued by the Victorian society’s obsession with death and the afterlife, a period during which mourning traditions developed significantly and various spiritual movements emerged, such as spiritism, where people attempted to communicate with spirits through different techniques. The aesthetic of this collection is intended to be dramatic, romantic, extremely feminine, and full of grace, while at the same time having a ghostly quality that evokes thoughts of the ethereal realm of spirits.

I cannot not asking you this :). Did you ever take a peak at your brother’s mood board or work (ps – stay tuned for Mihai Anghel interiew very very soon here)? And what do you think about his collection? 

Considering that we are twin brothers and have quite similar stylistic and aesthetic identities, it is natural that I have been inspired by his work, sought his advice, and asked for his opinions. At the same time, I have tried to distinguish my collection from his through the theme and silhouettes that I used. As for his collection, I can say that I adore it, from the silhouettes that evoke the eternal glamour of 50s-60s couture to the complexity of the tailoring and the handcrafted details.

You chose to have a collection all white because… 

I chose the collection to be white because conceptually, white signifies purity and sensitivity, but especially because in the Victorian era, white was also associated with the idea of a ghost. Given the high mortality rate, many young women were buried in white dresses, thus linking the symbol of the bride with that of the ghost. Additionally, for the three outfits presented in the collection, I was greatly inspired by the character of Miss Havisham from Charles Dickens’ novel “Great Expectations” as this character represents the bride abandoned at the altar, who wore her wedding dress for the rest of her life and isolated herself in her own home like a ghost cursed to relive the moment of disappointment endlessly.

Tell me about the actual process of making the collection – how hard it was, how many hours you have spent doing it (sewing, cutting, embroidery, prints etc)?  

The process of creating this collection was extremely complex and lengthy, beginning with thorough research that included sketchbooks, hundreds of idea sketches, mood boards, volumetric experiments, and textile manipulations. After completing the creative process that underpins the collection, the physical creation of the products followed, which was an equally complex process involving pattern making, cutting, and sewing the pieces. The production of the garments was particularly challenging because my brother and I chose to sew all the pieces ourselves. As for the bead embroidery, it was also done by hand and took dozens of hours. For the embroidery, I used a classic haute couture technique known as “tambour beading” which requires great skill and technique. I did not keep track of the number of hours spent on creating the garments, but I am sure it was in the hundreds.

How can we solve the dilemma: why should we invest in a Romanian designer piece instead in one from a famous brand?

The answer is quite simple from my point of view: by investing in a Romanian designer, you address part of the consumerism problem, avoiding the promotion of brands that pollute the environment. At the same time, you support the local designer community’s development, and on top of that, you acquire unique and high-quality clothing pieces.

Tell me one personal story related with fashion world. 

I believe one of the first moments I came into contact with what fashion means was when I learned to sew alongside my grandmother. These are very precious memories for me. At first, it seemed like just a game to occupy my time, but it later turned into a passion that materialised in choosing a career in fashion design.

One important lesson learnt at the UAD Fashion school is… 

It’s hard for me to name just one lesson I learned at UAD, but I believe the most important thing I learned from attending this university is seriousness, perseverance, constant and consistent work, and ultimately, the respect you must have first and foremost for yourself and your work as an artist, and of course, for those around you.

The piece (the pattern, cut) that will always be in your collection is…

The garment that will always be found in my collections is the dress. Regardless of the silhouette or pattern, I consider the dress to be a timeless, extremely feminine, and versatile element that can never go out of style.

One city, one song, one movie just perfect for your collection will be… 

A city that matches the vibe of my collection is Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland, as it has a melancholic, ghostly, and mystical atmosphere. A suitable song for the collection is “Cassandra” by Florence and the Machine, and a film that resonates with the concept of the collection is “Great Expectations” (2012) directed by Mike Newell.

The designers relevant right now for you are…

A relevant Romanian designer whom I greatly admire is Ancuța Sarca, and on an international level, I resonate a lot with the romantic and feminine aesthetic of Simone Rocha.

What is next for you (this year, 2024, the next year)

First and foremost, I intend to continue my graduation collection because I believe I have more garments that deserve to be seen. Additionally, I will continue my studies in the field by enrolling in the master’s program at UAD. 

Photography: Raluca Ciornea – @ralucaciornea.