13 collections for spring/summer 2026 I loved from Paris Fashion Week 

It was a very highly expected season. Not just because we are actually waiting forward for the summer again, but because of the rotation of creative directors and designers – the musical chair that has started at the beginning at the year and continued for some long fashion months. What did I like, what did I put on the moodboard? Let’s see: 13 collections for spring/summer 2026 I loved from Paris Fashion Week (in black, white and a dash of color). 

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The spring/summer 2026 ment debuts from Peter Copping at Lanvin, Sarah Burton at Givenchy, Michael Rider at Celine, Veronica Leoni at Calvin Klein, Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford, Matthieu Blazy at Chanel and Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta – just to name a few. Who nailed it? What collections were so good to open the wish list in an instant? 

Chanel. Of course I had to mention the first collection that French Matthieu Blazy had. At the Grand Palais, set among a dazzling recreation of the Solar System, models paraded around planets and moons like shooting stars. Low-slung wrap skirts, explosive eveningwear, and sharp boyish tailoring are some of the features of the new Chanel as imagined by Blazy. I loved the designs, but also the model Awar Odhiang, who closed the show with a smile and a twirl and a hug with Blazy.

Valentino. All the world expected the best from Alessandro Michele at Maison Valentino. And we saw a lot of shimmering sequined evening frocks, velvet and silk bows, and draped blouses on the runway, under the glow of what Michele conceptualized as fireflies (used to represent hope and resistance against darkness, inspired by Pasolini’s metaphor). The color combo was quite unexpected: powdery blue with chartreuse and mustard with deep purple. 

Louis Vuitton. Hosted at the summer apartments of Anne of Austria at the Musée du Louvre, the collection is defined by freedom and inventiveness, delicately infused with the timeless glamour of 1940s Hollywood. The spring/summer 2026 show of Louis Vuitton featured historic silhouettes and motifs – from peplums and jeweled ornamentation to wallpaper florals and oversized collars – all rendered in contemporary fabrications. A nice one from Nicolas Ghesquière.  

Dior. Jonathan Anderson’s debut womenswear show for House of Dior was one of the hottest tickets of the spring 2026 season. The designer has opened the show with a supercut film of the house’s past that introduced a prim, crisp white tea-length gown as an opening look. The collection then unfolded to unveil a new, daring Christian Dior: the jacket cropped and sculptural was paired with a mini skirt; florals came alive with micro embroideries. 

Issey Miyake. At Issey Miyake we saw suits, slogan tees, and rugby polos. Except that nothing is what it seems – maybe because the designer Satoshi Kondo’s pitch for this collection was: “If garments become autonomous. If the body becomes an object”. The collection featured neck-negating rounded shoulders, askew shirting, and “sure, that’s one way of wearing it” tailoring.

Sacai. Chitose Abe’s spring 2026 show was, again, a lesson of deconstruction of wardrobe classics. Innovative tailoring, skirts that become capes and jackets with exposed elements, plus beautiful Naomi closing the show. Just perfect. 

Givenchy. Sarah Burton’s show for Givenchy looked like a supermodel convention – from Naomi to Mariacarla, Kaia, Vittoria, Mona, Alex. “I wanted to explore the strengths of women through feminine archetypes. It started with peeling back the structure of tailoring to reveal skin and a sense of lightness and ease  and then exploring the female vocabulary of dress and undress”, says the designer.

Celine. Imagined by Michael Rider (at his first collection for the brand), the new Celine carries a bike helmet, wears toe rings and metal belts, skinny-cut trousers, and lots of silk scarves as necklaces or tops or capes. Satin scarves remained a hero piece on the runway, along with classic tailored navy blazers, printed minidresses, equestrian chinos and layers of belts and beaded necklaces. 

Saint Laurent. Bella Hadid, the Eiffel Tower, and thousands of hydrangeas – Anthony Vaccarello closed the first day of shows at Paris Fashion Week with a romantic takeover of Trocadéro; white flowers spelled a giant YSL logo around which models walked in leather pencil skirts, their silhouettes marked by broad 1980s-style shoulders, ruffled gowns in vivid colors, and giant bows at some the voluminous princess gowns. 

Victoria Beckham. I loved the documentary of Netflix (and I could imagine the struggle behind her work for every collection). Victoria Beckham took her spring collection to Val-de-Grâce in Paris, a former hospital built by Anne of Austria, Queen of France. For spring-summer 2026, the collection was inspired by the adaptation of the coming-of-age wardrobe: the experimental gestures, naive compositions and happy accidents that shape the way we learn to dress and express ourselves. 

Tom Ford. Haider Ackermann imagined a sensual, romantic night out in Paris at his Tom Ford show. Models including Anok Yai, Mona Tougaard, Mariacarla Boscono, and Vittoria Ceretti emerged from darkness and fog as they paraded in draped jersey and silk gowns. Tailoring came in the brightest hues: bright blue, neon green, citric orange.

Prada. “A response to the overload of contemporary culture – a process of distillation, of filtration through clothes. Dispersion and reunion of different elements, unexpected and unanticipated, composed on the body. Juxtaposition here becomes an act of creation.” That is the manifest for the spring/summer 2026 Prada collection. 

Lacoste. The designer Pelagia Kolotouros explores the brand’s athletic DNA through René Lacoste’s formative training years in spring/summer 2026 collection. This season unfolds as a sensorial ode to sport, a passion for surpassing limits shared by players and spectators alike. The collection explores the allure of incomplete states of dress – the unbuttoning of a match-worn tennis polo, the loosening of a tracksuit – and the moments that counter the tyranny of perfection. 

Photography: brands pages.