It was all about CHANEL these days: a new perfume which celebrates Gabrielle’s triumph in America, an amazing haute-couture catwalk (without a Karl Lagrfeld bow at the end), a 7 Days Out’s documentary on Netflix about the French brand… The latest CHANEL haute-couture Spring/Summer 2019 show took us in a beautiful Mediterranean garden. And I just loved it! Here are the details about the setup, collection and the amazing craftwork.
Chanel designs on – www.chanel.com.
About the setup…
This season, the Grand Palais becomes the vast Mediterranean garden of a beautiful, big house. A pool of water is surrounded by trees and Southern plant species in a harmony of neat lines.
About the collection…
The dresses and the suits are very refined. I just loved the shouldered jackets (and I really think that they could be worn in the middle of the day of this spring), but also the wraparound skirts cut to the knee.
Karl Lagerfeld brought us the 18th century not only in the mood, but in the styling of the models, proving that the opposites really attracts. The “lingerie” dresses in white pleated chiffon are interspersed with ennobled lace, ruffles and ladder lace. A dress in pleated chiffon slit with entre-deux lace is worn with a very structured leather jacket, for a contrasting and ultra-graphic silhouette. On the same principle a sequinned tweed skirt is coupled with a little cape covered with feathers and fastened at the neck with a leather bow.
About the craftwork
The ateliers reveal that on dresses, every horizontal blind tuck is completed by hand, taking up to 350 hours of work. On one organza dress embroidered with flowers made from feathers, the organ pleats that animate the ruffles are gathered thread by thread.
The smocked lozenges of a silk blouse are sewn by hand and held in place by 650 beads. A black leather dress cut in spirals is aerated by ladder lace. An entirely sequinned white suit embroidered with patterns inspired by the porcelain of the Manufacture de Vincennes is a veritable work of art. An organza dress with a bolero effect is embroidered with real flowers immortalised in resin. Finally, a long green sequinned dress is embroidered with hand-painted ceramic flowers.
The bride broke all the rules. Beneath a silver sequinned white veil, she steps out in an embroidered bathing suit and swimming hat. Below, my 7 favourite looks are…
Photography: (C) CHANEL / Olivier Saillant, Vittorio Zunino