Haute Couture week is over. And I cannot get out of my mind some wonderful pieces. The beautiful Chanel setup, the incredible feminine dresses from Dior, the mathematically well-arranged catwalk from Ralph & Russo, the sci-fi outfits from Iris Van Herpen and, of course, the beautiful and touching farewell collection of Jean Paul Gaultier. Here are 5 Haute Couture catwalks SS20 to put on the moodboard.
Jean Paul Gaultier – it was probably the most commented moment of Haute couture fashion week. It celebrated a 50-year career in fashion and it featured some reinventions of the iconic designer’s classic looks over the year (corsets, sailor stripes, the smoking). And the casting was one to balance the weight the event: Karlie Kloss, Hadid sisters, Beatrice Dalle… (www.jeanpaulgaultier.com)
Chanel – under the dome at the Grand Palais, the catwalk was a poetry put into clothes. Spring- Summer 2020 Haute Couture show transported us to one of the key places in Gabrielle Chanel’s childhood. “I also liked the idea of the boarder, of the schoolgirl, the outfits worn by children long ago,” says Virginie Viard, the head of design. The strict suits of the pupils rub shoulders with structured dresses of an ethereal finesse, all in tulle with layers of black and white transparency, occasionally enclosing embroidered flowers; the motifs in pastel sequinned scrolls on certain suits are reminiscent of the motifs on the stained glass windows and the floors that Gabrielle would see every day. (www.chanel.com)
Dior – “What If Women Ruled The World?” was the driving force question at Dior’s show. The Grecian inspired dressed made me dreaming of legends with gods & goddesses. Dior’s creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri wanted to “reconsider the roles and power relationships that determine, through the lens of gender, the way we live together today” and drew inspiration from Athena, goddess of wisdom, courage and justice. Therefore, I saw long and ethereal dresses, fluid gowns, gold headbands and a lot of pleats. (www.dior.com)
Ralph & Russo – The Australian designers Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo designed a collection meant to be on red carpet (I bet on Oscars, if you ask me). After a decade in the fashion business, “We wanted to celebrate where we’ve been, but also show a new direction for a new decade,” Ralph said after the show. “Every element was something from history, whether fabrication, embroideries, or silhouettes.” (https://ralphandrusso.com)
Iris Van Herpen – It was my favourite show. As always, Iris Van Herpen pieces seemed extracted from a different dimension. Entitled “Sensory Seas”, otherworldly pieces were inspired by microscopic detailing, marine life and new age technology. Just hypnotic! Iris Van Herpen, who was a dancer before she was a designer, explained that “Sometimes a fabric feels dead to me,” she said. “I try to really bring transformation and life into my work and it’s hard because clothes and fabrics aren’t made to live but that’s maybe my ultimate dream.” (https://www.irisvanherpen.com)
Photography: (C) Olivier Saillant & Lucile Perron for Chanel, Imaxtree for Ralph & Russo, Facebook pages of brands