Genghiz Beghim: “I will never get enough of this fashion rush from the backstage” – interview with young designer from UAD Fashion 2024
At the first look, in the catwalk pictures, I have noticed the photographic films inserted into the fabric. Loved them! Then, after a second look, I saw the prints on the long and beautiful coats (or should I say capes?) created by Genghiz Beghim. In the end (but not the last) I just enjoyed (live, in a hot day) the smile and the good vibes of designer himself. I talked with Genghiz about fashion and plans for the future. And… I must say, I was very proud when, a few days later, he received the scholarship from IED Milano for Fashion Trend Forecasting and Styling in Firenze (at Feeric Fashion Week) .
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You can find him on the personal Instagram account @ghz.hy. More collections from UAD Fashion 2024 – on @uadfashion. Read HERE about all the collections.
Thank you @ralucaciornea & @mushu_roi for the beautiful pictures. Thanks @lucianbroscatean @kiss.gyongyver for all your support!
Your collection for 2024 UAD Fashion gala was inspired by…
…The idea of distortion and how can I explore this concept into fashion and art, trying to prove the aesthetic quality of unclear and blurry perceptions. Based on aesthetic canons dating back to antiquity, the rational mind identifies the presence of distortion as a defective trait that reduces the quality and the value of an image. However, this judgment is transcended by notions of modern aesthetics, where ugliness, through the lens of deformation, acquires new valences and becomes a means of nuanced understanding of beauty. Thus, my motivation for this subject involves exploring a personal creative universe primarily based on an attraction to distortion and deviation from order, with the aim of highlighting an “ordered chaos” and an atypical refinement. The “retrographic” collection proposes a deliberate deconstruction of forms, proportions, and characteristics typically associated with beauty, using distortion to undermine conventional expectations, allowing for a deeper exploration of the human condition. The traditional perception of an image is distorted through both digital processing and textile printing technology, as well as through the analog features of capturing images with a film camera.
You chose these patterns and fabrics because…
… I wanted to create a good combination of opaque and transparent textiles, creating an unique layering, that allows someone to see that there are multiple garments but, can’t tell for sure what garment is there and where does it finish. This was the beauty of distorted perception, people can’t really tell what garments create the outfit and that fuels their need to approach and try to understand what have they just seen! The same idea applies to the prints as well. They are made only using my photos captured by my film camera and the negatives that result after developing. I am fond of this kind of pictures because of the “flaws” they tend to have, due to their not-so-performant analogue technology. I find all these imperfections appealing and expressive and I really wanted to put focus on, rather than trying to cover them.
Tell me about the actual process of making the collection – how hard it was, how many hours you have spent doing it (sewing, cutting, embroidery, prints etc)?
It was a pretty hard job, as it was my first collection ever. I am still a beginner when it comes to putting my ideas into action, so I have to admit I have got a lot of help in terms of cutting and sewing the garments, for which I am truly grateful. I can’t tell you for sure an amount of time, because no work is linear and equal, but I can tell for sure months of work were put into developing these amazing creations!
How can we solve the dilemma: why should we invest in a Romanian designer piece instead in one from a famous brand?
This is truly a dilemma which seems to become more and more discussed in Romania and I am really happy to hear that normal people become aware of the fact that they can find truly unique and amazing fashion garments signed by a Romanian designer. As an emerging Romanian designer, I believe this community really focuses on innovation and creating art from their heart, creating a story and conveying a message. If people would try to find out more about the background of any Romanian designer’s garment, I truly believe any other high fashion brand would become less relevant.
Tell me one personal story related with fashion world.
One moment I still think about is the first Fashion Show I attended. It was not long ago, in my first year of studies at the University of Arts and Design from Cluj-Napoca, when I enrolled myself into its backstage team. That was the moment I felt all the adrenaline and the work people put in their collections for months only to appear for 5-10 minutes on screens. After that day I decided I have experience this as a designer, and I still can’t belive I have, during the UAD Fashion Show 2024 when I watched my BA collection being presented on the runway. I will never get enough of this “fashion rush” that happens in the backstage of any fashion show!
One important lesson learnt at UAD Fashion department is…
… you have to do a lot of research before creating something. It’s not that easy to keep coming with ideas and designs that people will really look at and say “I haven’t seen something like this before”. It’s almost impossible to imagine something entirely innovative nowadays, but it’s important to convey a message, an atmosphere, an idea that makes people think about your designs after they see them.
The piece (the pattern, cut) that will always be in your collection is…
… the cape or the cloak! I know this is not anyone’s usual garment that they have in their wardrobe but I love the elegance and the versatility of a piece like a cape or a “poncho”, if it’s not cut in the middle. The silhouette of an outfit with this kind of garment creates such fluid and soft lines that can be matched by no other. Plus, it’s a garment i believe everyone feels so comfortable wearing! More people should have this in their wardrobe!!!
One city, one song, one movie just perfect for your collection will be…
This is a tough question, but I’ll try my best! If I have to choose a city that suits my collection I think about Antwerp, a place that looks just as timeless as my intended atmosphere of this collection. A song that matches my designs is definitely a mix between Monument from Röyksopp ft. Robin and any experimental piece from Grischa Lichtenberger, whose distorted sounds suits perfectly my vision. A movie is a really tricky association, I’d say maybe “Memoirs Of A Geisha” for building such a strong main character that fits my collection’s character, or even the Japanese Horror/Mystery film “Ringu” because of the tension and analogue-kind -of-aesthetic.
The designers relevant right now for you are…
… Alexandru Floarea, my all times favorite Romanian designer since I first saw his “Pygmalion” collection featured in different magazines, especially for his dark poetic mysterious atmosphere that he’s creating around him and his work and internationally, Stefano Gallici, the present creative director of Ann Demeulemeester, a young designer who knows how to keep a legacy alive.
What is next for you (this year, 2024, the next year)…
For me, next is my admission to the Master of Arts program at UAD Fashion, as well as more projects where I can reveal more than 3 outfits of my BA collection!
Photography: Raluca Ciornea – @ralucaciornea.