From Morocco, with love — Casablanca & Marrakesh 

My first encounter with Morocco wasn’t the smoothest one. It was Tangier, 15 years ago, in a hot day of August, on the smelly streets, full of local vendors and noise and food leftovers floating in the muddy water down the narrow alleys (yep, I couldn’t eat anything back then). I came back this year in Morocco, for a wedding actually. And the magic of the (indeed beautiful country) made me wishing for a week more. Therefore, Morocco was love at the second sight – and these are the 17 things that I saw and liked in Casablanca & Marrakesh. 

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Let’s start with Marrakesh….

OK, it is haotic, it is noisy, it is full of funny smells and interesting people. But it has a beautiful city to get lost in and to enjoy all the things that come into your way. Not to forget: the city was a haven for bohemian spirits in the 1960s and 70s, attracting everyone from The Beatles to The Rolling Stones — a legacy which continues to shape Marrakech’s youthful culture today. The old town of Marrakech was built within red clay walls, giving the city its famous nickname: The Red City. Today, the city behind those red walls is what we now call the Medina — the historic heart of Marrakech. Inside, you’ll find narrow alleys, traditional riads, palaces, mosques, and stunning Moroccan architecture (it is, from 1985, a UNESCO site). 

1. The pink walls of Koutoubia. This large 12th-century Almohad-style mosque features a plaza with gardens & a fountain. Nice thing to remember: the name Koutoubia comes from the Arabic word for booksellers, as this area was once filled with book markets and manuscript traders.

2. Jemaa el-Fna Square is the city’s main square, which has more than 1.000 years of history under its belt. Despite all its chaos and all the vendors shouting, all the animals running, all the improvised stalls to sell from fruits to candles or watermelon slices or… anything, I kind of like it. It is not for everyone, it is not for those light hearted or with fobia of crowds. 

3. Medersa Ben Youssef. It was one of the most important centers of learning in North Africa. The original building was founded around 1340 but expanded and rebuilt in the 1560s.  This Islamic college once housed up to 900 students studying Quranic teachings, Islamic law, theology, literature, mathematics, and astronomy. Beautiful building (perfect for pictures), reminding me of Alhambra Palace, with carved cedarwood, elaborate and colorful tilework, and ornate stucco. 

4. Bahia Palace. It’s considered one of Marrakech’s most beautiful architectural gems, a masterpiece of intricate tilework, painted cedar ceilings, and tranquil courtyards.

5. The Souk. Remember: Around 60% of the working population in Marrakech are artisans of some sort, making it the perfect place to stock up on homewares or refresh your wardrobe. Historically, the souks were divided by speciality — spices, carpets, metalwork, leather — but nowadays, you can pick up (mostly) everything in one place: jewellery, textiles, jars of turmeric and saffron, embroidered kaftans, leather satchels, ornate lanterns

6. Yves Saint Laurent Museum, a tribute to the designer’s life, work and enduring love of the Red City. Designed by French architecture firm Studio KO, the building itself is a highlight.

7. Of course, in the area, speaking of YSL, there is also the famous Jardin Majorelle, a botanical garden created by the French painter Jacques Majorelle in 1923 which became known for its striking splashes of ‘Majorelle blue’. By 1947, Majorelle opened the garden to the public, but it eventually fell into disrepair. Thankfully, in 1980, it was saved from developers by Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé, who set about restoring it. The Pierre Bergé Museum of Berber Arts can be found inside the garden and showcases the clothing, jewellery and homewares of the Berber people through a collection of 600 objects.

8 & 9. Special places not to miss: The Museum of Photography – https://maisondelaphotographie.ma/ (where I saw a beautiful exhibition with old pictures (even from the beginnings of photography) and I was fascinated by the outfits & the jewelry of Berber girls. Than, pretty close by this one, a very old and beautiful teahouse – 1112Marrakech –  the riad is fully restored and the tiled floors, the light that enters through ceilings, the luxuriant garden and the delicios teas made me come again and again. 

10. To eat and to drink in Marrakesh: it depends what you are looking for. There are four stars restaurants, with excellent service and food, there are small dinners lost in the souk, there are the stalls at Jemaa el-Fna market (be careful though, these are not really for everyone’s stomach and be prepared to be hustle a bit when you approach the area). Some cool places – La Terrasse des Épices has a rooftop terrace and a Mediterranean menu with a Moroccan twist, Dar Yacout, a palatial riad designed by noted aesthete Bill Willis, the trendy Kabana bar or the  La Mamounia’s low-lit Le Churchill bar. 

11. Going to Casablanca… the road itself is a poem. The view of Atlas Mountains, the colorful improvised ceramic and souvenirs shops in the parking lots, the beautiful view of some animal herds, the colors. 

Casablanca. The city, not the movie.

Speaking about the movie, Rick’s bar… you know that the bar in Casablanca, the movie, was actually built on the set, right?! But there is a bar copying the movie in Casablanca – but unfortunately it was closed. 

12. The Hassan II Mosque. Impressive, indeed. Famous for the exquisite and intricate Islamic architecture style, the mosque is one of the largest in the world, set on the edge of the ocean, with a towering minaret that is a spectacular landmark on the city skyline. 

13. Parc de la Ligue Arabe. I am not going to lie to you, the pictures here are amazing! But also the view of the palm trees surrounding the water basins.  is one of Casablanca’s largest and oldest parks, located in the city center.

14. The beach. Of course I had to go to the beach. There is a charm in Tahiti Beach Club (the oldest and the famous one – and I also think it’s the only one here) but also on the public beach, with all the crowd soaking into the sun. 

15. The secret spots. Without our cool taxi driver I wouldn’t know about the best pastries ever at pâtisserie Bennis (with a history dating from from 1938). And I was so so happy to see that, at Villa Des Arts, local artists are encouraged to be on display – my favorite was, this time, Narjiss El Joubari. 

16. To eat and to drink. At Kaan Hotel (rooftop Misti and the beautiful restaurant Kaantine), at Radisson hotel rooftop Bliss rooftop, Dar Dada restaurant, Le Cabestan. 

17.  Plus… a day in Rabat – if you wanna see a very cosmopolit Moroccan city, one hour away from Casablanca, very clean, friendly, with impressive boulevards and buildings. Not to miss – the Medina, the Kasbah UNESCO site, the Royal Palace, the beach and many many more… 

Photography: www.dreamingof.net.