Discovering Neith Nyer story: the interview with the designer Francisco Terra
The designer Francisco Terra had his first Fashion Project in his early 20s, a “rock band T-shirt” called Wash Your T-shirt. It is easy to imagine that “daring” stands for his designs. Francisco Terra graduated Fashion Design at Instituto Marangoni and he joined the Givenchy Menswear and soon after the Women wear team. After 3 years join the French house Carven as Senior Women wear Designer, and at the same time, founded Neith Nyer, a fashion statement luxury brand.
I talked with Francisco Terra about new collection and his signature, about fast fashion movement results and about inspiration for a beautiful collection. The story? A gang of friends evolving in the mysterious and mystic universe of the Loup Garoux de Thiercelieux.
The Neith Nyer collections could be found on http://shop.neithnyer.co.
Why #lespossédés hastag? Where did the inspiration come from for this collection FW1617?
The possessed comes from the fact that the collection has been inspired by a French board game called “les loups garous de thiercelieux”. A group of people gathered around a circle play the role of citizens that by night get attacked by paranormal creatures, especially werewolves. The aim of the game is through persuasion discover who the werewolves are and kill them one by one. On the show each look had it character, from the teens of the village to witches and wolves. The campaign followed the same line, it’s a mirrored picture, in one we see the day life of this characters, on other what they become when night falls. The hashtag is also already a call from what I am preparing for winter 2017/2018 in march. But that is another story, and still a little secret.
When and how this brand (Neith Nyer) story started?
For me Neith Nyer started starts since my childhood, when I was still between the sewing machines of my grandmothers. It became clear in my mind though when I left Givenchy, and I decided to go solo. I wondered for years what I could bring to Fashion that was not yet done, and I came to the conclusion that the only way would be if I were telling my own stories, getting inspired by my personal experiences, and by moments and people that crossed my path. I then surrounded myself from people I trust and did 3 experimental seasons, to sharpen the style, to concretise the image of the girl I would like to dress. I felt ready for to show the world then last year, on our first show, SS16.
You worked for several brands before you have started your own collection. How do you think fashion industry has changed in all past years? In a good way or in a bad way?
The main change in Fashion had come from the introduction of the “Fast Fashion” concept. It brought an insane rhythm of production even for high-end brands, with the appearance of pre-collections and the increase of the demand. I couldn’t classify between bad or good, but I can say a few lost their link with making art, and that is something that I am aiming to keep, my artistic side, less profit guided. The industry is slowly realising this issue and we can clearly see on the appearance of some new designers. I keep faith the game will turn and smaller creative brands will find back a spot on the light and be able to survive in the market. Luxury is about exclusivity, not about quantity of price.
Your style signature is (and it will be, always)….
Remix of subcultures.
If you would have infinite powers, what period would you erase from the fashion history?
Every period of Fashion History has its importance on the evolution of the garment, and we can find also in every period different artistic veins influencing Fashion. I don’t mean that in the 60’s what has been done in general was bad, but the principal style in the media was the minimalistic, futuristic, geometric fashion, and it doesn’t match my “more is more” motto. So I would erase that at least from my mind.
Your shopping secret address… KINJI Thrift Shop in Jingumae, Tokyo.
Your favorite city for inspiration… Paris.
The 5 pieces everybody should have… A 501 old Levi’s, a black Uniqlo T-shirt, a sober vintage black leather perfecto, a white shirt, a long camel coat.
Celebrities that will look good in your designs… Grimes would rock some on them and Lana Del Rey would rock a few others.
The perfect soundtrack for your collections will be… What I was listening while designing the collection.
Shot by François Pragniere and inspired by Larry Clarck and Robert Mapplethorpe, this new campaign star Lukas Ionesco, Angele Metzger, India Tran, Lou Lampros,Pierre Kaczmarek, Emile Chavanne and Marina Damjanovic.
Photography: François Pragnère assisted by Tom Bouchet. Artistic Direction : Francisco Terra, Florian Choulet, Rozenn Kantarci. Hair: Soraya Meziane. Make up: Madeleine Mendes