Mercedes Benz Bucharest Fashion Week SS27: the shows that I liked

Many innovations and very interesting cuts and layerings, multiple stories and a lot of performances – from dance to theatre, from music to big emotional choirs. These were some of the lovable collections that I saw at Mercedes Benz Bucharest Fashion Week October 2026. 

Mercedes-Benz Bucharest Fashion Week 2025 – https://mbbfw.ro

1. Next Generation show and the  X-IDENTITY theme of this year competition.  As usual, the young and talented designers surprised me with a lot of cool silhouettes – Ariana Stanciu (Shell), Cristiana-Coca Nedelcovici (Between Forms), Vlad Tălmaciu (The New Old), Andrada Negru (Trace of Distortion), Alexia Ilco Luca (Urban Lace), Ioana Andrada Demian (Layers of Self), Ioana Maria Cotfas (X-19), Andrei-Ioan Petculescu (Mezzanine), Anamaria Vișovan (Lost Memories). The winner: Diana Grigorescu (UAD Fashion), with I’ll Be Your Mirror. 

2. Romanian Designers. Ami Amalia staged an entire show The Hummingbird – related to sustainability and the future of fashion, that emphasize the value of natural fibers and craftsmanship. Rhea Costa had a collection inspired by the desert mood, the silence, the light and the landscape – in a lot of pleating, fluid fabrics and sand tones. Silent Horizon was the collection signed Dualitae and it was one of my favorites! Tones of white, sand, terracotta, and brown defined a minimalist aesthetic, complemented by tactile details and subtle contrasts. A distinctive element was the collaboration with the National Heritage Institute – strips of recycled denim were transformed by Romanian artisans into a new textile. (“You don’t have to choose between being powerful and being feminine” – interview with the Romanian designer behind Dualitae brandRead HERE an interview with the designer)

In Every Woman Is a Maria, Medeea explored the feminine image as both a personal and collective symbol; the designer continued to reinterpret the feminine silhouette by deconstructing classic elements of the masculine wardrobe. The SS27 collection by Carmen Secăreanu was a blast! Some pieces at the intersection of fashion, art and design, some unconventional cuts and precious fabrics. 15 years of Murmur were celebrated in a collection that reinterpreted the distinctive elements of the brand – from corset to the details inspired by 50s underwear. 

3. The Moldovan runway. In The Art of Presence – Altezza by Storojuc I have noticed the structured blazers and wide cool pants. For SS27, Katea Gri proposed a subtle exploration of femininity through form, texture, and the relationship between the body and clothing. The collection signed Pehova explored the balance between strength and delicacy, translating into silhouettes the encounter between volcanic rocks and the fluidity of the ocean. Diosa and the collection Closure had some interesting cuts, inspired by Kubrick cinema, while Valentina Vidrașcu blended contemporary elements with deep folkloric references in fluid silhouettes, delicate transparencies, and meticulous craftsmanship (plus a beautiful presence on stage – Valentina Nafornița). 

4. The brands that I have discovered. TTSWTRS brought Wonderland to the runway – a collection of 18 looks inspired by a surreal universe. Motifs such as mysterious rabbits, cracked porcelain, roses, and flamingos were translated into prints, exaggerated proportions, and voluminous pink organza. The experience was further enhanced by an immersive installation. KSENIASCHNAIDER presented a collection centered on belonging, mobility, and ever-changing identities, with football jerseys, racing uniforms, and the graphic codes of sportswear have been reinterpreted through fictional logos, numbers, and symbols with ambiguous meanings.

5. The show that stole everybody’s heart: Sacred Couture – Anghel Studio X ATU Body Couture with a performance by Corul Madrigal. ATU designed 42 costumes for the choir members, reinterpreting iconic pieces from the creator’s own aesthetic universe and adapting them to the artists’ stage presence. Anghel Studio presented a collection inspired by the symbolism of liturgical and monastic vestments, with all the elements that already I have mentions at these two amazing brothers – from sculptural silhouettes to haute couture elements, embroidery, oversized sleeves and very thoughtful curated details. (Read HERE – interviews with these two young and talented designers) 

Photography: (c) Mercedes Benz Bucharest Fashion Week.