Ulyana Sergeenko couture: urban nostalgia

Interesting details and beautiful textures I saw in Ulyana Sergeenko couture show AW15 in Paris. Mixing nostalgia with a flair for beauty, the designer finds a new tone in her expression: soft and intimate, light but intensely personal. Ulyana Sergeenko is a wonderful storyteller: every collection tells us something about a period in our recent history. Therefore, this couture collection remind the audience about the Russian atmosphere after the 1917 Revolution – the strange glamour in a Soviet Communal Apartment. It was interesting to see the surreal punctuation in the form of fur pompons on coats and dresses, in large geranium textile flowers or in the decadent nightgowns with a Visconti flair, suggesting a stroll in the winter gardens. Bags shaped in the form of a ballerina or an ice-cream exude a light, naive charm, while the pumps and thigh-high boots with fur pompons, created with Christian Louboutin, have a seductive boudoir scent. Net hats, created by Stephen Jones, have a decadent feel. Baby mink bonnets, also created by Jones, add the aura of a sweet childhood memory to the story. The collection is a Boudoir feast of lace, silk, high bodices, wrap dresses, loose-fitting lines and soft corsets, with a lot of pleating, intarsia, crystals and sequins.

Photography: Ulyana Sergeenko