Long, clean silhouettes, checks all over, exaggerated collars, geometrical figures: this season, the designers from London Fashion Week were very focused on some details. Burberry had the classic British pattern, JW Anderson put some huge volumes on clothes, Christopher Kane seemed into with triangle shapes, Victoria Beckham chased some long silhouettes.
Burberry – Riccardo Tisci reinvented the classical Burberry pattern in all kind of shapes and fabrics and I saw it everywhere – from pants to shirts, from coats and trenches to boots and bags. The designer put his mark in the the form of cuts and details like looped collars on trenches and double-layered coats. Also, additional to the street section of the collection and the usual pret-a-porter one, Riccardo Tisci put on the catwalk an evening category for Burberry (satin dresses with delicate chiffon sleeves).
Christopher Kane – the triangle shape was compulsive repeated in almost every piece from the fall/winter 2020 collection. In fact, Christopher Kane said is all about triangles – sex, subversion, fashion – “the triangle is the most powerful, strongest shape in nature. The geometric satin patchworking of coats in colors reminiscent of the ’70s was just the start. There were black lace lingerie tops and also triangles appearing as glittering bows and as slightly clerical cutouts in white cotton shirts.
JW Anderson – the term for the collection was “nouveau chic”. And the designer said that he was thinking about what it takes to enter a room. The huge trapeze shapes in coats (the camel one made quite a sensation), in black wool blazers, in some back details of a delicate satin dress.
Victoria Beckham – I want almost all the things in her collection (and I think I am not the only one!). I saw on the catwalk midi black dresses that embrace the body, English tweed crombie-style overcoats, worn open over tonally matching skirts or culottes, beautiful fluid skirts paired with long boots, some shetland sweaters and the excellent detail repeated in a lot of outfits (the interesting belt).