The designer to watch: Paul & Yakov
When I looked for an address in a rainy morning in Paris I didn’t think that I will discover something so, so cool. The Moscow based fashion brand Paul & Yakov has presented at Paris Fashion Week the new Fall/Winter 2017-2018 collection. And, in a second, I fell in love with a electric blue coat and a green cold proof parka. “This season’s main muse was the nature and its interaction with the human being. The design team was inspired by the artworks of independent land-artists Nils-Udo and Andy Goldsworthy, who contrapose the nature and the city”, explained to me Petr Polyakov (one of the two brothers of Paul & Yakov brand) while I was trying on the coats.
The collection is dominated by colours of late autumn grass, moss, fading foliage with bright and sudden neon accents of orange and electric blue.
The constant core of collection has remained with redesigned military theme and meticulous attention to selection of materials and their wear resistance and technology. There are cargo pants made of dense wool, a structural electric-blue coat, raw Japanese stonewashed cotton parkas with metal details and light reflecting stripes, down jacket with an open armhole (an element of military clothing from the 1940s), quilted skirt with detachable pockets, water-repellent unique designed black and yellow camouflage print and a textured greatcoat with massive pockets.
“We use the best materials”, told me one of the designers. “Like leather and wool, Japanese cotton, double faced cashmere, jacquard knitwear.”
Paul & Yakov is a new developing Russian brand, with the design-center based in Moscow. The brand is concentrated on research for outstanding materials and techniques as well as highest quality production. It was founded by two brothers — Petr and Yury Polyakov on the basis of the family fashion business specialized in outerwear production.