3% is the exact ratio needed to twist a normative object into something special. And that is what Virgil Abloh did for his first collection as artistic director of menswear at Louis Vuitton. He twisted (a bit) the logos, invited models from all over the world, he paved the catwalk with rainbow colours and mixed the streetwear and the unconventional in a cool collection of a icon brand. Louis Vuitton Men Collection Autumn-Winter 2018/2019.
“The biggest goal for a first collection in any scenario is to start so that people can understand the new vocabulary,” he wrote on Instagram before the show, at which each attendee was left a dictionary on their seats, or “a liberal definition of terms and explanation of ideas”, as he put it.
“A” was for “accessomorphosis”, which he said was as a portmanteau describing the transformation of an accessory into a garment. No wonder, as far Louis Vuitton is already worldwide famous with hits garments. Abloh took signature bag such as the large Keepall, the Runner and the Petit-Malle and reinvented them – some in red, green and iridescent plastic, others in matte leather with the traditional hardware detailing and accessorised them with multicoloured ceramic chains.
Virgil Abloh’s biography was also in the dictionary (at letter “B”), as well as the definition of a new era designer (the architect, designer and founder of the cool label OFF-WHITE said “I don’t call myself a designer, nor do I call myself an imagemaker. I don’t reject the label of either. I am not trying to put myself on a pedestal, nor am I trying to be more, now. I would like to define the title of Artistic Director for a new and different era.” –Virgil Abloh). Dorothy of Oz, Kanye West, millenials, Off-White and streetwear are words in his dictionary as well. “Z” – “If you’ve made it this far, thank you for your time.” –Virgil.
All-white clothes, neon accents, tie-dye jacquard smocks, hooded anoraks were in the collection, and oversized shirts took on a Wizard of Oz theme, with the face of Judy Garland’s Dorothy depicted in sequins.
It was a show full of stars in the front row: Rihanna, Kim Kardashian, Naomi Kampbell, Travis Scott, Bella Hadid, as well as Kanye West, Virgil Abloh mentor.
Photography: “LOUIS VUITTON Men Collection Autumn-Winter 2018/2019 © Louis Vuitton – All rights reserved”