Leonard Paris

Into the woods: Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2018 collections

March 9th, 2018 / by / in: Dazzling stories / No responses

In a world suffocated by consumerism, in a community marching on a fast-forward speed to another season, the Paris Fashion Week, this month, has decided to take a break. And to explore more the nature, the faraway lands, the flora & fauna and to play differently. Therefore, starting with Chanel and their dark forrest and the sporty, outdoorsy clothes for a lot of brands, everybody was eager to go outside. And to feel the vibe for fall/winter 2018 collections.

My days at Paris Fashion Week have started with a delayed flight (and a Issey Miyake missed show – therefore, I missed the setup in the Palais de Tokyo that looked like a giant technologically advanced meditation on nature and the earth-coloured clothes). What did I loved?

First, the interesting collection of Alexis Mabille (for the first time in years, the designer has decided to give up the usual show and to present the collection in the showroom – “to fell the fabrics, to have more real experience”, he told me). http://www.alexismabille.com

alexis mabille

alexis mabille

With the designer Alexis Mabille

Then, the simple and yet elegant collection from a brand that I have discovered last year, GAUCHÈRE (www.gauchere-paris.com). White dresses, dark navy coats and green tops.

gauchere 1

Gauchere

The DROMe collection was, as always, one to take home. The colour palette takes inspiration from the hues of sunset and night, the time of day when the DROMe woman feels more confident and free to express herself. From pure white to more neutral tones of dusty pink, from dark black to military green, with flashes of sky blue and burgundy, the chromatic range is warm and intense. (https://www.drome.it)

DROMe

DROMe

The surprise in the outdoor kind of vibe was, this year, the Jitrois clothes. Well known for elegant leather dresses and jackets and for the lace-like cuts and embroideries, Jitroise propose is, for fall/winter 2018, some… sport jackets. Of course, with leather insertions. So cool for the next snowboarding adventure! (https://www.jitrois.com/fr/).

Jitrois

Jitrois

Mira Mikati came this year with a new concept of having fun. After a skateboard ramp, now the show was a karting ring. Fashion pilots & adrenaline seekers were there, admiring the new collection. (www.miramikati.com)

mira mikati

The designer Mira Mikati

#FaithLoveHope. That was the motto of the entire collection of Talbot Runhof. The designers showed looks embellished with hearts, anchors, crosses, 3-D treatments in sequins, rhinestones, beads, pearls and dresses in hues of lavender, lilac, green, and mallard blue. (www.talbotrunhof.com)

Talbot Runhof

Flowers. Plus age models. Unmistakable patterns. I am talking about the blue and red flowers of fall/winter 2018 collection of Marimekko, presented in an old printing house. The Finnish brand that took the inspiration from the Finnish landscape and exotic Lapland. (www.marimekko.com)

marimekko

marimekko

Fatima Lopes – earth colours, with a touch of red and pink. A relaxed vibe. I just loved the loose hairstyle of models! (www.fatimalopes.com)

fatima lopes

fatima lopes

For OTTOLINGER, Swiss design duo Christa Bösch & Cosima Gadient took over a quiet alley in the 4th arrondissement of Paris, displaying models in the windows of an art gallery, a dry cleaners and an “Oriental Wedding” store. The fall/winter 2018 collection draws energy from contrasts and the Ottolinger’s silhouettes have their own unique language of shapes and fits on the body creating an instantly recognisable aesthetic. (www.ottolinger.com)

Ottolinger

ottolinger

I was pretty in love with the John Galliano collection. For fall/winter 2018, the collection stirs up an encounter that takes place in Midwest America where the Depression has left small towns facing a bleak future. Tweed jackets and denim workwear were mixed with pearls and tulle. And thee return of the Galliano Gazette is an exciting embrace of the original House logo: on silk as a spaghetti strap dress or skirt, as cheeky underpinnings, or on cotton canvas as a doctor’s bag. (www.johngalliano.com)

john galliano

john galliano

It was one of the funniest shows this year. Yazbukey has invited everybody to a pyjama party, on the sounds of old songs. The set? A very wide bed with white covers and pillowcases decorated with big red lips, the Yazbukey signature. The doorbell rang constantly, heralding the arrival of new partygoers with lipstick shaped necklaces and rings, earrings in the form of a pipe or a pair of legs and an eye mask that said “not now.” (http://www.yazbukey.com)

yazbukey

yazbukey

The Swarovski fall/winter inspiration was the forrest. The leaves, the animals that live in (foxes, spiders, owls and even squirrels on some rings and bracelets). A little bit of goth and more drama were added to the pieces, and  that was pretty nice. (www.swarovski.com)

swarovski

swarovski

As winter came, so did an unstoppable desire to flee the city and the drudgery of everyday life to rediscover nature. Destination: Iceland. The LEONARD woman has organized her expedition with the greatest care: a ski suit, floral and belted, anoraks and puffer jackets with graphic details, technical garments cut out of silk, that allow her to face the elements. The woman imagined by LEONARD isn’t “in” but “of” nature. She has merged with the world around her.(www.leonardparis.com)

Leonard Paris

Leonard Paris

And, in the end, 3 shorts stops…

  • Alexandre Birman, a shoemaker from Brasil with a lot of imagination – www.alexandrebirman.com.
  • Thale Blanc – pretty cool and elegant bags – www.thaleblanc.com.
  • Paris Sur Mode experience – this year, art & fashion worked together here. I loved the disco mood setup and I was happy to find the corner of one Romanian designer that I love, Venera Arapu. (www.venera-arapu.com)

alexandre birman

thale blanc

Venera Arapu

paris sur mode

Mercedes-Benz Fashion engagement 

Mercedes-Benz stands for a unique style, innovative ideas and exceptional design. For the last 20 years, Mercedes-Benz become an active partner of the fashion industry, from organising Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week to projects developed together with designers and initiatives that support this global fashion engagement of Mercedes-Benz – “Just a perfect combination”.

The demands on fashion and cars are very similar – making a decision to buy a particular type of car or a specific outfit defines the way in which we present ourselves. A trend-setting design therefore plays a central role both in fashion and the world of automobiles. Perfection, the impassioned power of innovation and distinctive style – that’s the link between Mercedes-Benz design and top-class fashion design.

#mbcollective is a group of creative people, influencers, celebrities and designers, that support Mercedes-Benz global engagement for fashion industry.

In 2018, #mbcollective becomes a global community. In the campaign #WeWonder, six personalities imagines the future in the elecrtic mode, starting from EQ of Mercedes-Benz.

FOLLOW @Mercedes-Benz Romania Instagram@Mercedes-Benz Fashion Instagram 

(P) 

Photography: dreamingof.net, Leonard Paris PR

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