I remember this one, I told myself as soon as I saw the announcement of ANDAM (Association Nationale Pour Le Développement Des Arts De La Mode) winner of 2017 edition. And that’s because I’ve already noticed the interesting cuts & shapes of the young Belgian designer behind Y/Project, in Paris, at Designer’s Apartment venue.
Y/Project designs could be found on https://yproject.fr.
The label has been credited with sparking the sense of revolution that’s currently happening within the industry, alongside French brands like Vetements and Jacquemus, all of whom have broken through the strict Parisian system.
The Fall/Winter 2017/2018 collection is about volumes. Everywhere! From the enormous earrings to the incredible long and wide leather over-the-knee boots and big silver puffy parka. It is about dramatic proportions, inventive and witty detailing and a constant play between opulence and the codes of the street, delivered with an absolutely unpretentious verve.
The designer Glenn Martens had a degree in interior architecture and no knowledge of history of fashion when he decided to apply for Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp. He graduated first in his class in 2008, walked straight into a job at John Paul Gaultier and also started an eponymous brand, which debuted at Paris Fashion Week in 2012 and ran for three seasons. In 2013 Martens joined the brand Y/Project, which had been founded by Frenchman Yohan Serfaty and business partner Gilles Elalouf in 2010.